ARCADE BUILD-IT YOURSELF
by Spike Tsasmali
Beep-Boop-Beep-Boop-Bup. The sounds of Pong. It has been 30 years since
this classic video game has been released and it still attracts a nostalgic
crowd. But where can you go to play one? The REAL Pong? Well, not many
arcades still offer this timely piece. But that can all change.
You can now build this simple PONG game board and plug it into any JAMMA
cabinet and have the Classic of all Classics! Based on the genuine General Instruments AY-3-8500-1 TV Game Chip (which is remarkably still available), this is the closest thing to the original PONG you can get without being the real thing!
JAMMA PONG Video Game in COLOR
 
Difficulty=2 Howls

Remembering the Old Days
The original PONG game was a basic black and white TV tennis game and used two rotary potentiometers
to control the "paddles". It also used a single pushbutton to start a
two-player game (the original PONG was designed to be a 2-player game.
Later versions included a single player.). The game finalizes out with
a coin switch and a speaker.
Although the push buttons were never a major problem, the rotary
potentiometers were constantly a nightmare for the operator. These
controls would wear out or become dirty and once damaged the paddle
would "fly" across the picture instead of moving smoothly. Sometimes
the paddle would disappear totally.
Early versions of the game were built using a modified black and white
television, typically an Admiral desktop model. These televisions were
also difficult to maintain and did not have much of a life. Later versions
of the game used Motorola black and white monitors, which were a huge
improvement. Also, some PONG games had a green "overlay" which covered
the picture tube. This was used to color the picture "green" as to appear
to be a "computer" image. The original PONG was never manufactured as
a full "RGB" color game.
PONG as a JAMMA Game
Several changes have been made to facilitate PONG as a JAMMA game. The
two most obvious changes are:
Joysticks now replace the horrible rotary controls used on the original
game. And the game is now in COLOR. Player 1's paddle (on the right
side for PONG) is GREEN, Player 2's paddle is BLUE, the TENNIS COURT is
YELLOW and the ball is WHITE. GAME OVER and ATTRACT MODE screens are
in RED and the TEST MODE is multi-colored.
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| Game Over Screen | Credit Screen | Start Up Screen |
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| Skill Select Screen | 1 Player Practice Game | 2 Player Game |
One and two player games have also been included. Depending on coin
settings, after inserting coin the player(s) may select a one or two
player game. One player plays "practice" and trys to keep the ball in play for as long as he can. Two players compete against each other, scoring when the opposing player misses the ball. The game runs until a score of 15 is reached.
Due to logistics of using the AY-3-8500-1 chip, this JAMMA game project is based on timing and useage of controls to determine GAME OVER status. Therefore, once a score of 15 is reached, the ball may still serve and the paddles may still move (just like the original) but you cannot "play" the game. After a short wait (about 6 seconds) the game will resume a GAME OVER condition and will be in the ATTRACT MODE. While in the ATTRACT MODE, the game does not serve and the paddles are held in the center position.
TEST mode has also been added to facilitate adjustments. Monitor test patterns, switch inputs and paddle control test are all included on the TEST menu.
How it Works
The Schematic Diagram for the PONG game board is shown in Fig. 1 and can
be Downloaded
as an EasyTrax PCB file from the Lupine Systems Download site. This PCB
file is BEST PRINTED at 85% full size (it fits perfectly on a single
sheet of paper when printed at 85%). To do this using EasyPlot, first
load the pongsche.pcb file, then use the Setup, Printer function. Select
SCALE then enter 85. Remember that SCHEMATICS are on the 1 MID LAYER so
be sure you toggle ON the 1 Mid Layer or you will get a blank screen!

The PONG game consists of three major components -- the PIC processor,
the On Screen Display Controller (OSD) and the heart of the project --
the AY-3-8500-1 TV Game chip.
Master clock is generated by oscillator module U3. The 8 MHz Master
Clock is used by the PIC as the main processor clock. The PIC divides
this clock by 4 resulting in a 2 MHz signal at Pin 10 of U2. This
2 MHz clock is then used by the Game Chip as it's system clock. The
8 MHz Master clock is also used directly by the OSD chip as the pixel
clock.
Switch inputs from the JAMMA control panel are filtered and pulled-up
by resistors R9-R15, C1-C17 and network RP1. These filtered inputs are
then buffered by U11, a 74LS541 Octal Bus Buffer. The outputs of the
74LS541 then go directly to the inputs of the PIC processor for processing.
Joystick inputs are processed through the PIC processor and are used to
control two E-pot potentiometers U9 and U10. Pulses from pins 12, 13 and
14 of processor U2 toggle UP and DOWN the resistance values of these
electronic pots. These E-pots are used to replace the
rotary potentiometers originally used on the PONG game.
The Game Chip is used as the Master Video Source and generates separate
video outputs for each of the components visible on the screen, as well
as composite horizontal and vertical timing. This composite sync signal
is separated into non-composite sync by integrator U5,D5,R1 and C7.
Vertical sync is separated from the composite sync and is then fed to the
Vertical Timing input of the OSD chip U4 at pin 16. Since the composite
sync coming from the Game Chip is digital, the horizontal sync component
will be constant and can be used as the Horizontal Timing signal needed
by the OSD. Therefore, composite sync appears at Pin 17 of U4 as Horizontal
timing. The composite sync is then re-buffered and routed to Pin "P" of the
JAMMA edge connector.
The separate video signals generated by the Game Chip are mixed together to form the RGB color scheme used by this project. Video is mixed using the XOR gate U8. Finally, video generated by the OSD chip is overlaid onto the video from
the Game Chip by multiplexer U7 and is under the control of the Overlay
Blanking signal generated by the OSD chip U4 at Pin 14. Mixed video is
then routed to the JAMMA edge connector.
Audio is generated by the Game Chip. Sound is amplified by amp chip U12 and
is routed to the JAMMA edge connector.
DIP SWITCH settings are both processed and fixed. Two of the DIP switches
are processed by the PIC and are used to select pricing options.
The other two are related to the Difficulty Level and affect the
Game Chip directly. Diodes D1,D2 and D3 are used to specially connect
the individual inputs used by the Game Chip so that a simple DIP Switch
setting can be made to control the game difficulty.
Building The Project
Since this project will create a JAMMA edge connector, the use of a
printed circuit is HIGHLY recommended. The PC board will be double-
sided and will require soldering on BOTH SIDES. This poses a problem
for chips so care must be taken when assembling.
Tip. When assembling double-sided boards with chips, use Machine
Tool sockets. First solder ALL pins on the Solder Side, then single out
the ones you need to solder on the PARTS SIDE, heat from the SOLDER SIDE
the pin, then CONTACT solder the pin lead to the TOP LAYER using reflow
techniques.
What You Will Need
The complete list of parts for the JAMMA Pong Project is given in
Table 1. You will also need common shop tools, solder, PC board materials, etc.
Before you can begin the project, you will need to download and install
EasyTrax CAD
software. If you are not already familiar with EasyTrax, then please
take the time to read through the
Tutorial on how to use EasyTrax.
You will also need to download the JAMMA PONG Project
Schematic
Diagram and
Printed Circuit Layouts. The schematic diagram is located on the
1 Mid Layer of the layout file
(read the Tutorial
for more information).
If you need help with making PC boards, please read the article,
Making PC Boards.
| Description | Quantity | Designators |
| .1uF NPO or Z5U Bypass Capacitor | 22 | C1-C19,C21-C23 |
| 470uF/16v Radial Elec | 1 | C20 |
| 2.2uF/35v Axial Elec | 1 | C24 |
| 47uF/16v Radial Elec | 1 | C25 |
| 1K ohm 1/8 watt | 3 | R1,R2,R8 |
| 220 ohm 1/8 watt | 12 | R3-R6{R7},R9-R15,R22 |
| 10K ohm 1/8 watt | 5 | R16-R18,R20,R24 |
| 5K ohm miniature PC mount audio taper POT | 1 | R19 |
| 1.2 ohm 1/4 watt | 2 | R21,R23 |
| 1K x 9 Bussed Resistor Network | 1 | RP1 |
| TIP-122 NPN Darlington Transistor | 1 | Q1 |
| AY-3-8500-1 Game Chip (GI) | 1 | U1 |
| PIC16C62A Microcontroller (Microchip)(see text) | 1 | U2 |
| 8MHz Oscillator Module | 1 | U3 |
| uPD6145-001 TVDC/OSD Chip (NEC) | 1 | U4 |
| 74LS00 Quad NAND Gate | 2 | U5,U6 |
| 74LS157 Quad Data Selector | 1 | V7 |
| 74LS86 Quad XOR Gate | 1 | U8 |
| X9C104P E-Pot (Xicor) | 2 | U9,U10 |
| 74LS541 Octal Buffer | 1 | U11 |
| TDA-2002 or TDA-2003 Power Amp Chip | 1 | U12 |
| 4-POS DIP Switch | 1 | U13 |
| Socket for U1, 28 pin DIP Machine Tool | 1 | * |
| Socket for U2, 28 pin Skinny DIP Machine Tool | 1 | * |
| Socket for U4, 18 pin DIP Machine Tool | 1 | * |
| Heatsink for U12 | 1 | * |
Construction
After you have downloaded the
PC Board
Layouts, burn and etch a PC board for your project. If you need
help making the PC board, read the article,
"Making Printed
Circuits".
Carefully assemble the PC board according to the Component Placement
diagram provided on the 1 Mid Layer of the PC Board layout file.
Remember this board is a DOUBLE-SIDED board and will require soldering
on both sides of the board. Via holes will have to have a small wire
inserted in the hole and then soldered on both sides. This may take some
practice if you are not accustomed to having to do this. Use of
machine-tool type sockets is recommended for all socketed chips
because these type sockets make soldering on the top layer easy.
Simply solder the socket completely on the SOLDER SIDE first, then go
back and heat each pin you need to solder on the TOP layer by touching the tip of
your soldering iron to the pin on the BOTTOM of the board, then let
the heat conduct through the pin to the TOP side. Apply the solder
to the pin of the socket on the TOP side and use the pin's heat to
solder it to the circuit pad.
Once you have completed assembling the PC board, you will need to
Download and PROGRAM the PIC microcontroller with the software pong.asm. This is an ASSEMBLY FILE and will require you to run it through a Microchip PIC assembler to create the .HEX file needed to program the PIC. You can download a copy of MPLAB FREE from the Microchip Technology website. When you are ready to program, set your programmer to program the PIC with Brown Out Detect OFF, Code Protect OFF, Power On Timer ON and Oscillator to RC (PIC microcontrollers will accept external clock in the XT or the RC mode, but will only provide the fclk/4 timing signal in the RC mode). Once programmed, install the PIC in the socket for U2.
The JAMMA Pong board is now complete and ready to play!
Setting the DIP Switches
| DIP SWITCH Settings for PONG | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 |
| 1 Coin 1 per Player (Each player pays to play) | OFF | OFF | ||
| 1 Coin per Game (Single credit, but 2 Players can play) | OFF | ON | ||
| Free Play | ON | OFF | ||
| Paddle Size in Expert Mode | ||||
| Large | OFF | |||
| Small | ON | |||
| Ball Reflection Angles | ||||
| 4 Angles | ON | |||
| 8 Angles | OFF |
Operational Notes
Here are a few things you will need to know about the operation of the JAMMA Pong board.
This time-out feature will also activate and end the game if the player deliberately gets the ball "stuck" bouncing back and forth between the paddle(s) and the walls in a never-ending bounce-back and forth situation.
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